Acne treatment in Korea: Isotretinoin vs lasers vs chemical peels 2026

Choosing the right acne treatment in South Korea can be overwhelming given the sheer volume of advanced options available. You are likely wondering which method offers the fastest results, the best long-term cure, or the most travel-friendly recovery time.

The short answer: Isotretinoin offers a long-term systemic cure for cystic acne but requires months of treatment; lasers like Agnes and Gold PTT provide targeted, faster results for active breakouts and scarring with 1-3 days of downtime; chemical peels are best for maintenance and mild congestion with immediate recovery.

Understanding the Korean approach to acne

Korea is often referred to as the skincare capital of the world, and for good reason. In 2026, the medical tourism sector in Seoul alone sees over 150,000 international visitors specifically for dermatology. Unlike Western approaches that often rely heavily on strong oral antibiotics first, Korean dermatologists favor a "multimodal" approach. This means they rarely prescribe just one cream or one pill. Instead, they combine physical treatments (lasers/extractions) with internal regulation (medication) and barrier repair (skin boosters).

When you visit a clinic in Gangnam or Sinsa-dong—where over 500 clinics are concentrated within a 5km radius—you will likely undergo a Visia skin analysis. This machine scans your face to count porphyrins (bacteria), hidden spots, and sebum levels. This data-driven approach allows the doctor to customize a plan that often blends the three main contenders: Isotretinoin, Lasers, and Chemical Peels.

Isotretinoin: The internal solution

Isotretinoin (commonly known by brand names like Roaccutane, Accutane, or Isotren in Korea) is a vitamin A derivative. It works by shrinking the oil glands (sebaceous glands), reducing oil production by up to 90% within 6 weeks of usage.

The "Low-Dose" Korean philosophy

In the West, doctors often prescribe high doses (0.5mg to 1mg per kg of body weight) for a shorter duration. In Korea, the standard of care in 2026 leans heavily toward low-dose intermittent therapy. Doctors frequently prescribe 10mg daily or even 10mg every other day.

This approach significantly reduces common side effects like severe chapped lips, nosebleeds, and joint pain, making it more manageable for tourists who want to enjoy their trip without feeling physically drained. However, the treatment course is longer—often 6 to 12 months—meaning you will need to continue the medication after you leave Korea.

Cost and availability

Isotretinoin is a prescription-only drug in Korea. You cannot buy it over the counter at a pharmacy (Yak-guk).

• Consultation Fee: ₩10,000 – ₩30,000 ($7.50 – $22 USD) at a local clinic.
• Medication Cost: Approximately ₩15,000 – ₩25,000 ($11 – $19 USD) for 30 pills (10mg generic).
• Process: You visit the clinic, see the doctor for about 5-10 minutes, get a paper prescription, and take it to the pharmacy usually located on the same floor or building.

For those interested in how this integrates with other treatments, check out our guide on best dermatology clinics in Seoul for foreigners to find English-speaking doctors who can manage this prescription.

Laser treatments: The high-tech intervention

If Isotretinoin is the slow-burn internal fix, lasers are the precise, external weapon. Korean clinics utilize cutting-edge technology to destroy acne bacteria and sebaceous glands without damaging the surrounding skin.

1. Gold PTT (Photothermal Therapy)

This is one of the most popular treatments in Seoul for 2026. It involves applying gold nanoparticles to the skin, which travel down into the pores. A laser is then used to heat these gold particles, selectively destroying the oil glands.

• Pain Level: Low (2/10).
• Downtime: None. You can wear makeup immediately.
• Frequency: 3-5 sessions recommended.
• Cost: ₩150,000 – ₩250,000 per session.

2. Agnes RF

Agnes is a Korean invention. It uses a micro-insulated needle to deliver radiofrequency energy directly into a specific acne pore to destroy the sebaceous gland permanently. It is technically a "cure" for that specific pore—acne will not return in that exact spot.

• Pain Level: Moderate to High (6/10). Numbing cream is applied for 30 minutes.
• Downtime: 1-3 days of redness and potential pustules as debris is purged.
• Target: Recurrent cystic acne in the same spot (e.g., chin or jawline).

3. V-Beam / Excel V (Vascular Lasers)

These lasers target the redness (post-inflammatory erythema) left behind by acne. They operate on a 595nm or 532nm wavelength to collapse the dilated blood vessels.

• Efficiency: excellent for "red acne marks."
• Cost: ₩100,000 – ₩200,000 per mode.

If you are planning a trip specifically for these treatments, you should consider the timing. Lasers often require avoiding direct sunlight. Read our guide on the best time to visit Korea to plan your trip during autumn or winter when UV index is lower.

Chemical Peels: The resurfacing maintenance

Chemical peels in Korea (often called "Scaling") are distinct from the deep phenol peels seen in the West. They are generally milder and integrated into a facial routine.

Aqua Peel (The "Tourist Favorite")

This is a 3-step hydradermabrasion process using AHA, BHA, and suction. It cleans out pores and hydrates. It is not a cure for acne but creates a clean canvas.

• Cost: ₩30,000 – ₩70,000 ($22 – $52 USD).
• Frequency: Can be done weekly.

Aladdin Peel (FCR Peel)

This contains microscopic spicules (coral calcium) that are rubbed into the skin. It feels like rubbing crushed glass on the face. It stimulates massive cell turnover.

• Effect: Treats active acne and superficial scarring.
• Downtime: Your face will be red for 24 hours, and you will peel heavily (like a snake) from day 3 to day 5.
• Cost: ₩100,000 – ₩180,000 ($75 – $135 USD).

Jessner’s / Salicylic Acid Peels

Standard chemical exfoliation to unclog pores. Often used as a prep step before extractions.

Which treatment fits your travel itinerary?

Your choice depends heavily on how long you are staying in Korea. Since medical tourism is often time-bound, here is a breakdown based on trip duration.

Short Trip (3-5 Days)

• Recommended: Aqua Peel, Gentle LDM (Ultrasound) management, Extraction, Prescription for topical antibiotics.
• Avoid: Agnes RF or Aladdin Peel. You do not want to spend your short holiday peeling or looking swollen in photos.
• Strategy: Get a prescription for Isotretinoin to take home (if your country allows importation—check customs rules) and do a deep cleansing facial.

Medium Trip (2 Weeks)

• Recommended: Gold PTT (2 sessions spaced 1 week apart), V-Beam laser for redness.
• Strategy: Do the aggressive treatment on Day 2. Recover by Day 5. Do a follow-up or soothing treatment on Day 10.
• Activity: While recovering, you can enjoy indoor activities. Check out Coex Mall complete shopping and dining guide for a sun-safe environment.

Long Term (1 Month+)

• Recommended: Full acne package (Agnes + Toning + Peels).
• Strategy: You can undergo the "Spartan" treatments. The Aladdin peel is great here because you can hide out in your Airbnb for the 3 days of shedding.

The "Gangnam Style" Combination

The reality is that you rarely choose just one. A typical "Acne Package" at a factory clinic (large volume clinic) or a boutique clinic involves a sequence.

Example Session (90 minutes):

1. Cleansing: Professional double cleanse.
2. Extraction: Manual removal of comedones using a sterile needle (very thorough in Korea).
3. Scaling: Mild acid application to loosen debris.
4. Laser: Gold PTT or Sebacia laser treatment.
5. Cryotherapy: Cooling the skin to -10°C to reduce inflammation.
6. Modeling Mask: A thick rubber mask (spirulina or tea tree) to seal in moisture.
7. LED Light Therapy: Blue light to kill bacteria.

This comprehensive session costs between ₩150,000 and ₩300,000 depending on the laser used.

Booking and Process Timeline

Navigating the Korean medical system is efficient. Here is what the journey looks like for a foreigner.

Post-Treatment Care in Korea

Aftercare is just as important as the procedure. The Korean air can be dry, especially in winter, and the urban pollution (yellow dust) in spring can irritate treated skin.

1. Sun Protection: This is non-negotiable. After lasers or peels, your skin is photosensitive. You must use SPF 50+ PA++++.
   • Recommendation: Read our review on best Korean sunscreen guide to find a physical blocker that won't sting sensitive skin.
2. Regenerative Creams: Pharmacies sell "Cica" creams or EGF (Epidermal Growth Factor) ointments specifically for post-laser skin. Brands like Cell Fusion C or Zeroid are clinic favorites.
3. Pimple Patches: If active spots purge after treatment, cover them with hydrocolloid patches (Olive Young sells packs of 102 patches for roughly ₩6,000).

Pros and Cons: A Balanced View

To help you finalize your decision, let's look at the trade-offs.

Conclusion

The "best" treatment depends entirely on your goals.

• Choose Isotretinoin if you have persistent, cystic acne that has resisted antibiotics and you are willing to commit to a 6-month course.
• Choose Lasers (Gold PTT/Agnes) if you have active acne combined with scarring and want to utilize Korea's advanced technology during a 2-week trip.
• Choose Chemical Peels if you have mild congestion, want a glow up, or are on a budget.

For many travelers, the sweet spot is a hybrid approach: getting a deep cleaning and laser session in Seoul to jumpstart the process, and returning home with a prescription for low-dose Isotretinoin to maintain the results.

Whatever you choose, the dermatology infrastructure in Korea is world-class, offering treatments at 30-50% of the cost found in the US or Europe. Just remember to book in advance—the best English-speaking clinics in Gangnam are often booked out 2-3 weeks ahead.

For more beauty insights, check out our guide to best Korean skin clinics in Gangnam.